Building a pergola like this requires more technical skills, but is still possible.

Depending upon factors like your knowledge of building, your skill level, tool handling and knowledge of any city coding or homeowner association (HOA) violations, construction of your pergola can be simple or more challenging.  In most cases, the size of your pergola will keep it from having to be permitted through the city and your HOA from causing a stink.  Then, the factors that really make a difference are your personal abilities and knowledge of how to build something like this.  You’ll also need to keep in mind that it does take time.  If you are strapped for time, then hiring a local contractor may end up giving you a better return on investment if it will allow you to spend more time, and more quickly, enjoying your patio rather than building it.

Steps to Building A Pergola

Step 1 – Measuring for Materials

This process is just a matter of determining how tall your posts are going to be, and how long your beams will be, determining the width of your pergola.  The matter of the top stringers or ‘roof’ beams will be up to your tastes, but should have some level of overhang for a proper classic looking style.  Then, you can cut all your lumber to size and stain it or seal it while on the ground.  This will make it much easier and quicker to install when the time comes.  Having to sear or stain upon completion of the building process is more time consuming and requires moving around corners and other angles.

Step 2 – The Footings

You’ll need to start by laying out the general area where you’d like your pergola to go.  If you already have a patio space defined by a brick, flagstone or concrete slab, then you will want to measure carefully to avoid having to disrupt this area.  However, you will need to prepare the areas where you will be placing the support posts of the pergola.  This is what we call the footings.  They need to be dug deep enough to be below the frost line, so check with your local building codes on that one.  If you are planning to put your posts right on top of an existing slab, then you will be drilling into the concrete with a masonry bit and mounting your bracket directly to that.  Then, it is just a matter of setting the posts there and attaching them with some lag screws.  If you are pouring your own footings, you can set a bracket into the wet concrete and allow it to cure in place, then your posts can be mounted inside those brackets when dry.  This will save you a step of having to pour your footings and then drill them for the brackets.

Step 3 – Assembling Your Pergola

Assembly is a matter of putting your posts in place, then mounting your top brackets and setting your beams.  When you first place the posts, you’ll want to refrain from having them completely anchored until you ensure that each one is plumb and level.  This is going to be the foundation for your beams and ‘roof’ and you can’t afford to have this racked.  Once you have the posts set, you’ll be raising the beams.  Depending upon the type of brackets you choose to use to attach your beams to the posts with, you may need to put those on the posts first.  Both the post setting and the beam hoisting will require at least one other person.  If you had a third, that would be even easier and safer.

Putting on the rest of the stringer beams to create the ‘roof’ to this pergola is just a matter of placing them across the support beams set on your posts.  Spacing of these beams is also a matter of personal preference.  You’ll want to make sure that they aren’t too far apart as they will provide some degree of shade and will also be providing the framework upon which vines and other climbing plants can grow, providing even more shade for your patio.  There are many variations and details that can be added to your pergola, such as specific outdoor lighting options, blinds and even outdoor swings.

Then, the number of things you can do to create an outdoor room with this pergola are even more impressive.  Designing the space with shading and cooling in mind in the summer will bring to mind things like a retractable awning and misting system.   A standard size pergola might be in the neighborhood of a 10’x10’ footprint.  This is room enough to put some outdoor dining furniture or other patio furniture. Sure, you can build a larger pergola and have more space to enjoy.  This can be a challenge to integrate into your landscaping if it is too large, but many people need a more imposing structure because of such a large yard.

The main thing to remember about all patio structures is that they are there to help you enjoy your patio space more often.  Depending upon your local weather climate and seasons, you may find that you are utilizing your patio when it is cooler.  There are patio heaters to make this more enjoyable as well.  If you can think of an accessory that would make your patio better and it doesn’t already exist, make it and maybe you can escape the rat race forever selling your ingenious patio product.  Who knows, maybe it will end up here on Patio Covers Place.

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The reason that your patio space will look better with time is because of your landscaping and other elements that you add to liven up the place.  A brand new patio looks, well, brand new.  If you want yours to have a little old-world charm and distinguishing characteristics you can either wait for a period of years or you can get the look from the early on stages.  Now, you can’t necessarily rush the growing of your plants and vines, but you can affect how the hardscape looks.

Hardscape simply refers to those things that are part of your landscape or backyard design elements that are built or are manmade.  For example, your patio cover is a type of hardscape element.  It blends into your landscape design but also requires little in the way of maintenance, pruning, watering, etc.  The same thing is true about your actual patio itself.

You can have a simple concrete foundation poured and call it a patio, but this certainly lacks some much needed character.  Besides, if you have a patio paver walkway or other type of custom brick design, then you’ll get a much better blended feel if your patio brings this theme all the way around.

Patio pavers are the building blocks of good design.  This is a somewhat general term for the several styles available.  Pavers for patio construction come in both natural stone styles, brick looks or in cast concrete.  There is another category of pavers known as interlocking pavers.  The name comes from the fact that they have a symmetrical shape that are meant to be put together with others of similar shape to create an overall design.  Most places where you get your materials will even have a chart to help show you what types of patio paver designs or patterns you can create with these and also how many you can expect to need based upon your measurements of square footage.

Most of these interlocking ones are concrete patio pavers that can be colored shades of reds, browns and tans.  When all put together, they form a nice blended color palette.  The same thing is true of the brick patio pavers.  While these may be the familiar maroon colored brick, you can also find a brick shape that is made of these cast concrete stone looking styles.  The bricks can be laid in a herringbone pattern which has a nice and sophisticated look or a simple basket weave or butted joint type of pattern as well.  There really is no right or wrong way to pick your design, the key steps are with installation.  Another great thing about having a paver installation is that you can be comfortable with some type of outdoor fireplace and not worry about a fire risk.

Installing Your Patio Pavers

As mentioned, installation is the most critical part of this process.  If you are relying on your patio to be a firm foundation for years to come, you must make sure that it is graded properly.  For drainage purposes, you should have a degree of incline away from your home.  It doesn’t take much to get the water to drain away from your home’s foundation.

All climates and city building codes vary, so consult with your local professional to determine if you need to take any further steps before continuing here.  Once you’ve determined that you are clear to begin, you’ll need to dig out the area where you plan to lay your pavers.  Plan on having a 6” space around the edge of the area you plan to lay, that way you have some room to work and wiggle as you go.  You’ll appreciate this later.

Once you get the basic area dug, you’ll be adding in the base layer of stone or sand.  If you have a large area to build up, go with the decomposed granite to get the height up.  Then, you’ll use the sand as a base layer upon which your pavers will be set.  The process of leveling the sand – critical step – is called screed boarding or screeding.  It basically consists of laying down 1” PVC or rigid metal tube, pouring in the sand and leveling it.  The screeding step is to pull a board perpendicular to these tubes and pull toward you.  This will level the sand to the tubes and give you a nice 1” base layer to lay your pavers on.

Once you’ve got this part finished, you can begin laying in your patio pavers.  If you are making an old cobblestone looking walkway or patio, you can be a bit more haphazard or random with the selection of each paver.  If you are going for a more uniform look, like with bricks for a herringbone appearance, you’ll need to be a bit more precise.  Most newer concrete pavers have built-in spacers to them, so you just place them right up to one another.  Some older bricks are smooth on all edges so you’ll need to leave some space for the sand to fill the joints later.

What About A Flagstone Patio?

The process is very similar whether you are laying brick pavers or flagstone.  The only difference is in the thickness of the flagstone itself and the way that it is set into the sand or decomposed granite or crushed rock as it is sometimes called.  Because of the way that the flagstone is shaped in nature, it naturally has a non-uniform surface.  Laying it flat on a smooth concrete surface would reveal this.

So, when you are going to use flagstone for a patio or walkway, it needs to be set properly to avoid rocking and breaking due to uneven pressure.  Also, there are different grades of flagstone.  If you just plan on light use then ‘walk on’ grade is acceptable – usually measures ¾” to 1- 1/2” thick.  Thicker than that and you are into ‘patio grade’ which is rated for heavier use and placement of patio furniture and the like.  Once you’ve got the right thickness, you can begin laying it out.

Flagstone comes in odd shapes and sizes for a more organic looking pattern.  You simply lay your crushed rock or sand down in about 1” thickness and then work your flagstone into it by sliding it a bit back and forth and side to side.  You can gently tap some spots with a rubber mallet to nudge it into the base layer as well.  Be careful because it is very easy to crack and split with too much force on an uneven lie.

With both the flagstone patio or paver patio, you’ll need to finish the joints in some way to complete this project.  Simple mortar sand can be used to fill the cracks and swept over it at a 45 degree angle.  Then water it to let the sand settle and repeat until you have sand filling the joints.  For wider joints like with the flagstone, you can also grow some moss or other fine living material between it.  As we first mentioned, these little touches can make your patio look even more charming and aged than it really is.

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With the right tools, you can handle the job.

Even before you figure out how you’re going to build a patio cover, you should get some plans set out.  This will help you to decide what needs to be done before you even start buying material and getting your patio all set up.  The first thing I would recommend is searching for the style of patio cover that you want online or in fine home magazines.  As we’ve discussed, getting patio cover designs can be free or they may cost you some money.  If you hire a landscape designer or architect, you should probably think about spending several hundred to a few thousand for these.  It will be well worth it if your plans are for an elaborate or intricate type of cover.  For simple pergola or gazebo designs, I wouldn’t worry about spending this kind of money (thousands).

Once you’ve got your plans in hand, you can set out to create a materials list.  Obviously, this article is for those who are a bit handy.  If you don’t know how to swing a hammer (or use a nail gun) you should hire a professional contractor or someone who can do this type of work.  Your local handyman can probably tackle this type of project with little difficulty.  Much of the hard work is in the plumbing and squaring of your posts.  Oh, and the lifting of beams and such.

Building A Pergola

The pergola is one of the most common types of patio covers and you will find it much simpler to build than any other style.  They can be built free standing or attached to beams along your home’s outer wall.  In the southwest, you or your contractor will likely have to take down some stucco and wire to get access to the beams.  For this reason alone, I recommend building free standing patio covers.

Step one is really to find the position of where to put the posts.  Depending on your climate zone, the footings may need to be deeper for your frost lines.  Some climates, you can get away with a 12 – 18 ” depth.  Your posts can either be set into your concrete or be mounted on top after curing.  This style is easier to do and more forgiving.  Once your posts are placed in the concrete, moving them is impossible without digging up.  Mounting them on top will allow you to modify the ends to get a true plumb and square frame upon which your beams and top members can rest.

Once your posts are set and plumb, you can begin to hang your beams.  Sometimes, two are used and other times four.  This can be a personal taste issue as well.  The beams will support the cross members, which are usually lighter in stock.  Patio covers that use four beams are typically more substantial and hold more joist members, we’ll call them.  Two beams work just fine for most applications.

Finally, putting your top joist members on is really just a matter of placement.  Closer spacing will provide more shade and better structure for your greenery to grow on.  You may not need brackets for each member and this is the preferred method.  A bracket for each cross member gets expensive, but also takes away from the look.  You will likely only need brackets for attaching your posts to the beams.  Your project should take about 2 -3 weekends worth of work.  One will be due to curing of your concrete, but you can stain and treat your wood that weekend so you don’t lose time.  Patio covers built this way, by the owner, can provide not only years of enjoyment but years of bragging rights as well.

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