That’s where these garden shades come in.  Well, I don’t know if they’re actually specifically made for the garden, but this material is a great solution.  It can be used for patio covers, pergolas (stay tuned for this article coming soon as our 1^st attempt with the burlap only lasted about one season), gardens, greenhouses and could probably be used as shade sails, too.

What is it?

The material is a nylon-type, knitted and lock-stitched fabric we purchased called the Easy Gardener™ Sun Screen Shade Cloth that we got from Home Depot for around ~$35.  It comes in various sizes.  The 6’ x 20’ roll was perfect for us because our beds are ~4’ x 8’. All I did was unroll it and cut the 20 foot length in half.

Here are a few of our artichokes growing in our raised garden beds. There are two bigger ones and 3 or so smaller ones just popping out.

If you recall, these are the same beds where we planted the peas a few months ago.  The pea trellisworked great, but our peas suffered an early death.  We’re still not sure what happened. They were doing great, UNTIL we started training them on the trellis in that picture. Still confused – early heat, insect problem, watering issue..?? The excitement over the artichokes we have growing have helped to soften the blow!

Garden Shade Frame Structure

In any case, we opted for the ‘low tech’ version of a garden canopy for our raised planting beds. You can see the basic design in the photos.  All it requires in materials is rebar (1/2”) and PVC pipe (1/2”) and some 1/2” elbow fittings. (and some clamps for the model you see, ha!)

How to Assemble the Frame

Step 1: It is as simple as hammering your rebar into the soil as far as you need to get the stability you need, for the height of the shade as is necessary.  With our raised bed, this meant putting them inside the corners, but it would be just as easy to lay out a square or rectangle shape on the ground, too. I purchased the 20’ x ½” rebar and cut them to 5’ lengths.  Each 20 footer was ~$6.50. This saves quite a bit of money as the 6’ pre-cut rebar pieces are close to ~$5 each.

Step 2: Make the PVC ‘supports’. These fittings are all just pressed, I didn’t bother with the whole PVC glue thing.  The PVC fits right over the rebar.

Step 3: Hang the garden shade cloth material over the PVC and clamp.  You can see some sag in there because they lack that side PVC support* I was originally going to use.  With wind and weather, I may have to fabricate some type of lateral support. Time will tell.

For now, these do the trick. The sun is blocked in the intense hours of the day, while allowing the plants to get sun for growth. Depending on how your garden is shaped and how large it is, you can use this same type of design for your garden shades. If you come up with a cool design, please send a photo. Happy shady summer days!

*Normally, I end up doing an ‘overkill’ job when it comes to the engineering aspects of my designs.  For example, I would have liked to use a ‘Y’ shaped PVC fitting that would have given me a perpendicular attachment pipe between the two longer sides of the shade’s frame.  One, I couldn’t find such fittings at my local Home Depot that were un-threaded on one end. Two, it isn’t required.

Since this shade cloth screen material is quite airy, it allows air to flow through and doesn’t need to be permanently fixed – hence the clamps you see.  Now, we do have plans to stitch those, so that they can be slid over the PVC, like a curtain on a rod.  But, you know how those types of projects get shoved down the list over time.

Here is how it looks sitting in our raised planting bed.

It’s hard to fake or age wood quite like how Mother Nature does it.  We appreciate this principle and take it into account whenever we can when building new projects.  In many cases, you’ll want to use new lumber for building a pergola or other patio cover structure, but you can certainly use other materials, like stone and masonry or alternative building materials as well.

In the case of this bean trellis, it was a simple matter of pure function.  Okay, that’s not entirely true, we do like how it turned out looking, too!  It’s very quite simple to build and you can see how just by looking at the few photos here.

The small raised garden beds that we have at home are great for growing things like herbs, tomatoes and peas, like what we made the homemade trellis for. Just behind the trellis is actually an artichoke plant (or two) growing.  This photo was taken in mid-February in Arizona – a great time to plant in that climate zone!

How To Build A Trellis

You can see all of the necessary materials in this one photo.

This is a fairly simple task if you are trying to reproduce the trellis for peas in this photo.  All we did was cut some old wood we had laying around (1″ x 2″s) to length and then bought some chicken wire from our local home improvement warehouse.

Cut the chicken wire to fit the width, length and height (it came in a 2′ x 10′ roll, so one dimension could be a single span of this) of your trellis frame and screw the frame together to sandwich the climbing wire between it for the peas to grow up. Done!

Materials:

• scrap wood (1″ x 2″) – cut to length

• drywall screws (1 1/4″) – 24 would be more than enough

• chicken wire – 24″ x 10′ roll purchased for ~$8.00

If you want to build a trellis like this, make sure that you extend the ‘posts’ or legs beyond the bottom of the frame so that you can stake it into the ground.  Many trellises for peas and other garden plants, like tomatoes, are triangular-shaped or have some sort of ‘lean to’ configuration.  This is probably a good idea, time will tell if ours will hold up to the weight of the pea plants growing up the trellis. Our legs extend 6″ into the soil.

Additionally, the legs are made of wood, so we might encounter some rot if the plants produce for any length of time.  We could have used re-bar for the legs as well, but drilling a hole into the bottom of the frame would have been necessary in that case.

The piece of wood in the foreground that extends the whole length of the photo (left to right) is the leg.  You can see on the right side how it extends past the bottom of the frame. That bottom piece – just above the tape measure – is screwed to another piece that is between the two legs/posts forming the ‘sandwich’ around the chicken wire. The middle and top pieces are made in the same fashion. The one piece of wood that you see resting on the trellis is showing how it just fits between those ‘rail’ members and is screwed through the chicken wire creating to the other leg member.

This pea trellis that you see above the soil is 30″ wide x 24” tall (6″ for the legs into the soil).  All in all, a very simple project that not only provides a fun little weekend morning build using some scrap materials, but also provides a very functional and attractive looking pea trellis in your garden.

For under $10, you can’t really go wrong – in fact, you’ll have plenty of chicken wire left over to build another one (maybe two). Learning how to build a trellis like this is a great starter project you can even do with a handy child helper.

The design, shape, size and material are all considerations for any planter box. Understand what makes concrete planters unique and what you should consider when you are investing in a concrete cast planter and you’ll be pleased with the transformation of your patio or garden space.

The Advantages of Choosing Concrete

When you first hear the word concrete, you may think about an industrial or urban looking appearance. Many homeowners shy away from concrete garden planters because they assume it is not aesthetically pleasing. Concrete can be stained and painted to compliment any exterior design. These planters also come with embellishments so you can make an organic statement in your garden with only your planter box.

Read through the benefits of choosing concrete over wood, metal, vinyl, and other synthetic materials and you see why they make a great choice.  We’ve seen them placed at the base of the posts for pergolas and other patio covers, giving the space much more of a presence or ambiance.  While not permanent, they can help make for a lasting impression.

Durability

Concrete is a very durable material that will last for ages. Plastic and wood planter boxes may show signs of aging and fading within months of installation. Concrete planters, however, will retain their shape and their structure for years so deterioration from UV light or weather is not a concern. They are heavy and provide a great anchor point in your landscape design.

Here is a nice eco-friendly choice.

Eco-friendly planter options using a mix of concrete and glass and other recycled or re-purposed materials can make for an aesthetically pleasing appearance that’s ‘green’ too.  This always puts a smile on our face here at Patio Covers Place.  Some of these mixed-media planters are also a bit lighter than using solid concrete.  You can also go with some silk greenery which will give a more maintenance-free option that uses no water.

Weatherproofing your Garden

If you live in an area with adverse weather, concrete cast planters may be the perfect choice. They can stand up to heavy rain, snow, and direct sun contact without being damaged. Most planters will diminish in quality if there are sudden changes in temperature. The concrete applications do not crack, fade, or swell, as other applications do. If you want to provide your plants with the best possible protection, the best way to do that is to install a concrete box. The wall barriers provide natural insulation for the root of your plants so they can thrive amid the cold winter.

A Variety of Design Options

Concrete Planter, 36″ Sq. X 30″ H Square Tan River Rock LARGE CONCRETE PLANTERS Square Planter Concrete planters provide a versatile, attractive & maintenance-free outdoor architectural solution. Ideal for various environments including malls, office buildings & complexes, campuses and more. Designed as garden planters or park planters, these concrete planters add to the aesthetics of a facility or large home. Made using one piece, pre-cast concrete with welded rebar reinforcement. Beautiful exposed stone aggregate finish. Rounded elevated bottoms with drain holes prevent trapping of leaves and debris. Edges are beveled to prevent chipping. Heavy-duty concrete prevents theft and stays put. Concrete components are tested to stand up to 6000 psi.

Planter boxes are not one-size-fits-all. When you are shopping for a box, you need to consider the architecture of your home so you can make the best investment. Concrete cast planters come in a myriad of shapes and sizes. You can find concrete cast in anything from a rectangular box to a oblong shape that is customized for your garden area. If you are shopping for planters, you can browse styles and sizes in your local gardening store to get an idea of what is available. You can request a personalized cast if you are looking for a specific color, shape, and style. You may also want to review the embellishments that are available when you are browsing the inventory.

If you want to add a new design element to your outdoor space, choose a planter that will serve a number of functions. Planters can be both stylish and functional.  They’ll keep your plants thriving and create a great surround for your patio or garden setting.  Such a small investment can make a big difference by transforming your outdoor space.

You can install one or two small planters or a very large cast planter with the right sculptural detailing. If you want a custom planter, make sure you explain exactly what you want to the designer so they can turn your vision into a reality. Make your garden a focal point using live plants or the silk flowering trees mentioned above and by selecting the right planter box. Once your concrete outdoor planters are in your space, you’ll wonder why you waited so long.

The key to getting a lush, green lawn is really in the preparation.  Ironically, you will not hear us talk much about planting grass at Patio Covers Place because we really emphasize a more xeriscaping and more drought resistant landscape for where we live here in the desert, but a little grass here and there can be grown without too much water waste.

Here is how our overseeded lawn turned out.

Of course, if we’re being technical, ANY grass grown in the desert that requires watering is wasteful.  The fact is, people have it, so why not discuss how we can do it in a way that yields the greatest results, in a way that is as environmentally responsible as possible.  This is our real goal with all of the sustainable living and design elements we discuss, whether that is building a patio shade structure or gardening and landscape designs.  If you want to opt for a much more responsible ‘lawn’ consider synthetic grass. The current types look and feel like the real thing without the watering, mowing and waste that a real lawn provides.  If you’re not quite reading to make that step, follow these guidelines for getting your winter grass looking great.

Preparing to Overseed

The first thing you’ll want to do when it gets close to the time to plant your seed is to eliminate the competition from your underlying bermuda.  The trick to doing this is to ‘fool’ it into winter mode by cutting off the water schedule by 50-60%.  This will put it into more of a dormancy period and slow any growing.  If you have been fertilizing, you’ll also want to make sure you stop this about one month prior to overseeding.

So, you stopped watering by quite a bit and now you need to mow the lawn.  You’ll want to end up with a very ‘scalped’ lawn.  Depending on the height and density of your current grass, you may need to make several passes.  Your final pass should have you cutting the lawn with the lowest setting on your mower.

Then, once the grass is cut and the clippings are collected, you’ll need to rake up any additional clippings.  Also, de-thatching at this point is a great idea.  You need to have near bare dirt so that your rye will be able to germinate properly.

Choosing Annual or Perennial Rye Grass

Depending on your tastes, you’ll have the option of an annual rye, a perennial rye or a hybrid.  Basically, you’ll want to go with the perennial.  It comes in more lush, it’s darker green and it will not grow as fast in the spring as the annual tends to do.  Fescue is another option and you can find it at Home Depot as well.  Knowing what your square footage or acreage of your property is, you can use the suggestions on the product you’re buying to determine how much you’ll need.

In our case, we only have a small patch of grass that is about 200 square feet.  It requires just one 3-pound bag of seed for my needs, which I purchased at my local Home Depot.  It is just a mile from my house, so it’s just too convenient not to use for our small lawn.  We like the look of the grass, can play there with our son and it just feels good under your toes.  It requires watering, but the rest of our landscape is xeriscaped with Palo Verdes, Ironwoods, a Mesquite and other native species of shrubs and plants.  We use a 1/4″ Apache Gold ground cover for the ‘empty spaces’ around our property.  In fact, the trees require no watering at this point and are only about 4 years old now.

When spreading the rye seed, you want to use either a hand spreader that sends the seeds out in an arc fashion or by using a push spreader.  For larger lawns, you’ll want to use the push type.  Hand spreaders are great for smaller areas, it’s what I use for mine.  Make sure you have good coverage and there are no bare spots.  Sometimes, you will not notice this until after germination.  No big deal, just spread some more then.

After this is complete, you can get a much better and stronger turf by dragging a rake across it in both directions to help the seeds set into the soil.  This will also help create a great bed, over which your topsoil or mulch mix can go.

Topsoil: To Use or Not To Use

Again, we like the idea of organic gardening and landscaping here, so if you are going to do it right, use a natural and organic compost material. You are looking to spread it about 1/4″ thick on top of your seeded lawn area.  You are mainly using it to provide a moisture retaining effect.  It will also help nourish and fertilize by its organic composting nature as well.

In the previous year, I didn’t cover my seed with anything – sort of an experiment in rogue-minimalist-water-conservation landscape mode.  Our seeds did germinate, but this year’s grass is looking much thicker, healthier and more lush.  This time around, we used de-odorized steer manure – also a product from Home Depot.  I opted for the deodorized one and, truth be told, I didn’t look into how the odor is removed, but the thought of that manure smell outside our bathroom window and back sliding glass door that we like to keep open during this great time of year was not appealing.

How Often Do You Water An Overseeded Lawn?

This is a common question and the answer can seem a bit excessive, actually.  It is recommended that you water your seed 3 times per day for a period of 2 weeks, until the seedlings are about an inch tall.  Then, you can water one time per day for a longer period to ‘irrigate’ them.  Ultimately, when your grass is 1 1/2 inches to 3 inches tall, you can water once every 3 days or so.

Watering in this way is painful to think about, especially here in the desert, there’s just no way around that.  If you commit to having a lawn of this type, you are going to be using water and you are going to be wasting it – period (namely here in the desert southwest). In other places, you can rely on some rain and such to provide you with some water – the most balanced and the free kind!  Having said all of this, I watered my lawn once each day at about 7 a.m. for 4 minutes for 2 weeks.  My lawn looks great, but also gets considerable shade from our house and a palo verde.  Some days, when the temperatures were in the low 90s (yes, they were still this hot in early to mid-October), I used a garden hose and sprayer attachment to keep the seeds moist.

There are ways to conserve here as well.  The use of rainwater collection systems can be great for watering potted plants, patio gardens, a raised planting bed and other areas.  But, for a lawn, it is hard to utilize this type of system. It needs too much water, likely more than anyone would have stored through the fall and winter, in any case.

Mowing the Winter Lawn

The first mowing of your rye lawn is not recommended until the grass is at least 1 1/2 inches tall.  Some experts in the lawn field call for a 3 inch height.  You only want to cut about a 1/2 inch off the grass at a time or no more than 1/3 of the height.  Keeping your winter grass at about 1 1/2 inches is a good height.  Sharp blades are also important as it will help the grass from being pulled up out of the ground.

If you follow these steps, you should be able to enjoy a great looking and lively and lush winter lawn.  If you have any suggestions or comments regarding other best practices or ways of growing a ‘sustainable lawn’ please feel free to contact us. If it’s helpful and useful, we’ll update and edit this article to include your suggestions.  Thanks for stopping by today!

Before running to the nearest hardware store to buy supplies, there are several points to investigate further. Size, shape and color are only some of the decisions that need to be planned out before construction begins. There are a wide variety of available sizes and styles which makes it easy to find one that works well with your space.  If the gazebo feels too enclosed or formal, look into using a pergola to fit your backyard space.
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Here is a classic looking, wooden gazebo design.

Shape

The traditional octagon shape is the most popular option, but rectangles and squares are also highly requested (see below). When shopping for gazebo designs, you will likely need to decide between a four; six; eight; ten or twelve-sided model. The four-sided version is best if you plan to set it over an object, like a Jacuzzi. The other shapes work well for pavilion-style seating. Keep in mind that the ten and twelve-sided gazebos are very large and will not work well in a cramped space.

Size

Choosing the right size is key to making your backyard look welcoming rather than crowded. An over-sized structure will look out of place in a tiny yard. Measure the proposed area carefully to see which shape will best fit the location. If you plan to use the pavilion over a hot tub or play area, be sure to use a kit that will give ample space for people to enter and exit.

Style

Here is an example of a square gazebo that is screened in.

A gazebo differs from other outdoor structures because it includes a roof, ‘wall’s and often times, more detailing.  You’ll find this especially true when looking into Victorian styles. Screened gazebos, like the one in the photo, make for a great place to relax without worrying about bugs.

Unlike pergola designs, the gazebo will typically include some type of built-in seating. Couple this with your own patio furniture for plenty of seating in the open-air structure. For those that want the comfort of an indoor space with the feel of the outdoors, the use of mesh on the windows will make it feel more like an enclosed deck or sun room. With some paint and other detailing, you can fashion your gazebo to match your home perfectly.

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Materials

Wood is the typical material for traditional gazebos, but it is certainly not the only choice. The gazebo canopy can be made of various fabrics, like nylon, polyester and vinyl materials. These canopies are more common with the pop-up style gazebo. If you are unsure of which materials you would like to use, consider the typical weather for your area and your dedication to upkeep. While wood is sturdier than the fabric options, it will need refinishing and maintenance every few years. However, in areas with extreme weather, wood will survive the elements better than other options.

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This is a vinyl gazebo kit.

If you are looking into gazebo kits, you’ll find a variety of choices, too. Wood, steel and even vinyl gazebo options exist. Much like the pergola kits, these are made to be easier and quicker to assemble. If you’d rather spend more time under yours than working on it, consider one of these (more expensive) choices.

Cost

Planning out your budget may be the least enjoyable activity when building a gazebo, but it also the most important. While it’s certainly possible to find a cheap gazebo, the trick is to have it look as elegant and well-designed as a more expensive choice.

Everyone has big dreams when it comes to home improvements, but looking at that ten thousand dollar structure is not going to help when your budget is half of that. Look objectively at your finances and decide what you can devote towards building a space that fits your yard. Fabric models will cost considerably less than wood, so keep that in mind if your budget is tight. We’ve discussed shade structures and shade cloth and how they can be used in ways that might give you what you’re after. Remember to include the costs of smaller items if you would like them, such as mesh screen for the windows or new patio furniture.

Once you have taken all of these factors into consideration, then you are ready to start shopping using your gazebo plans. Visit any major hardware store to get a first-hand look at your desired model and talk with construction experts. This will help you get a better feel for how it will look in your yard and give you the chance to ask questions.

Before purchasing all the materials separately, you may find that any of the manufacturers of gazebo kits have models that will save you quite a bit of work. Most DIY plans are found online and are as simple as print and go. Download the plans, then take the included materials list to the hardware store to make sure you get everything you need in as few of trips as possible – we all know you can’t ever make just one trip! Whichever route you choose, you will be on your way to spending lazy afternoons in the comfort of your own gazebo.

There are a variety of ways for building a compost bin. They range from almost nothing being built to a more formal wood and mesh bin with hinged doors, lids and such. The only difference is that the types that you build that are more involved are just easier to use and contain your composting material more easily. There is really nothing more in the way of functional performance, besides the fact that animals or pets cannot mess with the closed-lid variety.

You can utilize a compost pile, another popular way of composting. In recent years, home composting has come on quite strong. One cause is likely due to the fact that many people are more and more likely to have their own vegetable or flower gardens. There has been a big upswing in residential chicken ‘farmers’, organic gardening and building other items like raised garden beds. Anything that brings more people into their backyards and patio areas is always going to get us smiling.

Building A Compost Bin

As mentioned, the actual structure can come in many forms. One great option is to go with the ‘lazy style’ – which is never a bad choice – and that is to simply create a pile. The same ‘rules’ apply; you’ll need to keep a proper mix of brown and green components (we will discuss these shortly), moisture, oxygen and sun. Only, with the pile, it requires no building skills. You will want to locate your pile somewhere that is not right against your home yet near enough so it is convenient to use. Many people choose to use an indoor kitchen compost bucket or pail of some sort and then dump it in their bin or pile when it gets full.

Here is an example of a ‘hybrid’ type compost construction – part contained, part open.

Another choice is to build one with a wood frame, mesh and/or lids to keep it all contained. Again, it will not necessarily give your compost any faster of a breakdown period, but it may make it easier for you to tend, which will shorten the time it takes to get usable compost. This is one of the best mulch types available. It is great for providing nutrition, minimizes moisture loss from your plants’ roots and is a natural weed suppressor.

Can you tell we are big fans of the idea of using those recycled palettes? Free and they result in less waste! There are, of course, composters that rotate. These are often sold for several hundred dollars. There are some advantages to these. First of all, they are easier to rotate and keep your compost turned regularly. This does help with breaking it down a bit quicker. Also, since they are made with durable plastics, they will last longer than the wooden built bins and some have compost juice reservoirs to help you capture that nutritious juice for your plants. This juice is great for indoor plants, a patio garden or herb garden. The downside is that they are quite expensive and are typically smaller than other styles.

So, what are these greens and browns (60%) we’re talking about? Brown material refers to items that are more dried out. They could include things like dead leaves, straw, pine needles or newspaper (shredded is best). This is why Fall is often considered a great time to start a compost when the leaves are falling and can be easily raked up and collected.

Green material refers to items like vegetable scraps, grass clippings, dying or dead flowers, plants and other not quite dried out plant materials. Manure can also be a great addition to your compost. You need to ensure that it comes from an herbivore, like a chicken, cow or other plant eating animal. There is a lot of nitrogen in it.

Some other key components of compost are moisture, oxygen and turning. Moisture levels should be damp, but not soggy. Oxygen is important as it will help the microorganisms in the pile do their work and also keep the breakdown moving along without odor. Turning helps with both oxygenation and keeping the materials mixed thoroughly to allow for proper breakdown.

If your compost is in the sun, you may need to actually water it occasionally. Different climates also affect the rate of breakdown. It should only take about 3-6 months to go from materials in to compost out. Hotter climates can have the effect of speeding up the whole process.

The editor of Organic Gardening magazine discusses the ins and outs of what goes in your compost bin and also how to ‘maintain it’ to give you that black gold you’re looking for in just a few months time in this next video.

If you’re still unsure of exactly how to make a compost bin, then you’re sure to find more helpful videos linked to the ones above. After using both municipal provided compost bins and the (more expensive rotation) styles mentioned above, using the old wooden palettes (if you have the space) makes for a great solution. Happy composting!

So, what type of pond are you interested in building? You really should have your pond design nailed down clearly before starting. The reason for this is because there are inevitable ‘building hazards’ you might call them, that can get in the way. Things like underground cables, gas lines or water lines can spell big trouble if they are in the line of where you want your pond to be. Likewise, natural elements, like stone or earthen material that is extremely difficult to work around or dig through can dramatically alter your plans.

This small pond has a river rock edge, some succulent landscaping and some lilies. You can also see some 'marine life' in there.

You’ll want to know these things prior to digging a big hole in your backyard. However, there are some things you can do to avoid these problems. One step is to ensure that you have the area marked off by all of your local utilities. This is often a free service and the gas, sewer, phone/cable, electric and other utilities will come by to paint or otherwise indicate where they have lines buried on your property.

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If you plan on digging yourself, this will give you much greater peace of mind. Once you’ve got this all marked out, you can better draw out your plans for your water feature. You might be surprised to learn that small backyard ponds can provide just as much in the way of pleasant sounds, without the hassle of digging a large pit and having to maintain it as well. This is definitely something to consider.

Some pond landscaping ideas include plants that thrive in the water. Essentially, there are three types of aquatic plants to consider for your pond: submerged, marginal and floating. Submerged plants, like water lilies, have most of their structure beneath the water and only a small portion, like some leaves or flowers that grow above the water line. These are best planted at depths of 1-2 feet for optimal growth. Marginal plants have most of their structure growing above the water line, with only the roots beneath. Finally, the floating species have no roots anchored in soil beneath the water, they float on the surface.

This pond has some beautiful lilies growing.

Another consideration is algae growth. Well-balanced aquatic garden ponds will have a natural algae control mechanism in place. Having shade from floating plants will limit the amount of algae growth. Also, fish within the pond can benefit from the oxygen produced by algae. Koi ponds must especially keep this in balance to have a healthy fish population. Again, this is one reason why a smaller pond can be easier to both build and maintain.

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Pond Construction

When it comes to the formal aspect of constructing your pond, there are some modern innovations that can make this project much easier. These materials are available at your local home improvement warehouse.

What you’ll need:

• liner or basin
• pump
• source of electricity
• tubing for the pump (possible backyard waterfall or fountain feature)

Step 1:
After marking your area, as described above, you can use a hose or other flexible material to lay out your design on the ground. Then, you’re ready to begin digging as per your pond design. Dig out the rough shape for the depth you require. You’ll also want to know where your electrical lines for the pump will be going and your plumbing. Larger ponds will need a dedicated water source so that it can be auto-filled when the level drops to a certain point – much like your pool or hot tub. If you don’t know how to work with plumbing or electricity, (outdoors is also unique) hire a local contractor to handle this aspect for you. For a few hundred bucks you will have it done right and avoid any future issues.

Step 2:
Pour sand into the dug out area for your liner. This will let it sit more naturally in your space and avoid punctures and holes. This is critical because a leak will turn your pond into a mud pit nightmare. Smaller holes can be repaired, but they are best to avoid all together.

Step 3:
Lay in either your liner, which is a rubberized or PVC type material, or your pre-formed pond basin. If you have a larger pond, then you are likely going to need the liner material.

Step 4:
Anchor your liner with larger stones or stakes, rock or other heavy materials. Retaining wall blocks can be used to create more of a wishing well looking pond. If you want a more natural look, you can use things like river rock, sandstone, larger boulders and other stone materials.

Step 5:
This is really your final step. This step involves creating the final look of your pond. Using plants and other natural elements to help your pond blend in more seamlessly with your patio or backyard space makes for a great look. Ponds make wonderful backyard landscaping features because they provide that additional element of sound that creates a peaceful setting.

Even if you have a xeriscaped yard, you can still utilize small water features to add more depth. The key is in proper water management. If you live in a hot or arid climate, like in the desert southwest, locating your pond in an area that gets more shade can help mitigate evaporation of the water and waste that way. You can also use plants to shade and get their water from the pond itself.

Koi Ponds

This backyard koi pond allows for both water feature and fish.

With koi pond construction, there are not many different things to consider. Just as mentioned, plants that provide shade and a well-oxygenated pond are critical. Many koi pond designs often incorporate a Japanese garden feel to the entire space, though this isn’t a necessary element.

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Pond Accessories

This is a typical looking pond fountain. There are others with different spray patterns and even solar styles, too.

You can utilize a variety of accessories, both during the construction phase and final step to help bring further depth to your design. Things like pond fountains can not only add a visual element, but can provide more aeration as well – great for koi ponds or those with many aquatic plants. We’ve written about the solar fountain and it’s features as well here at Patio Covers Place.

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Pond Lights

This type of glow is possible using underwater pond lights. There are also LED, solar and other floating pond lighting styles.

There are a variety of lights that can be used to accent your pond. Some are powered with the traditional electrical source. There are also solar pond lights. Like many aspects of outdoor lighting, solar provides a great way for you to get the accent you’re looking for without having to run wires. These make great floating pond lights because of this very design. If you have a larger pond, these floating lights look great in the evening or during a dinner party. They can gentle float around your pond with the wind and provide an additional element to your ambiance.

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As you can tell, building a pond is both a simple, yet very elegant way to add some much needed ‘splash’ to your backyard space. It is also a DIY-friendly project, one that you can likely complete in a matter of a few weekends. If you take the time to plan, design and build right, you will enjoy your pond for years to come.

Depending upon where you live, the way in which you use any number of water features will vary.  For example, in climates where freezing temperatures are the norm, it is unlikely that you will want to build a pond that has plants or fish in it.  The reason is obvious, the frozen water will kill the plants and animals each winter.  Better to create a waterfall feature that can be drained or can run without freezing.  This is why it is more common to find koi ponds out West or in much larger installations than the typical backyard size pond.

This is a slate covered waterfall in a backyard space that gives a lot of sound off when running.

Building a Waterfall

There are a few steps to take when building your own backyard waterfall feature.  You can get a sense of what is involved by looking at some of the photos below.  However, there are some common characteristics.

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First of all, you’ll need to have a basin of some sort that will act to collect or catch the water. This could be a dug out and lined ‘pond’, barrel, stone basin, rustic trough, you name it.  Basically, you’re going to be recycling the water from this item back up to the top of your waterfall.

Some of the more striking waterfall designs do a great job of hiding the plumbing and pump mechanisms that are required to maintain a water feature like these.

Once you’ve got your collection area determined, now you can turn your attention to how the water will actually fall into it.  Again, here you have many options.  Some of the more simple designs incorporate larger boulders or stones that are stacked in such a way that gives them a natural looking appearance.  When the pump is turned on, the water cascades down them into your basin or river area just like in nature.  This is the hope anyway!

If you’re a bit more experienced or have the ability to cut tile and are skilled at working with masonry products, you can build a waterfall like the one in the photo above.  This one utilizes copper plumbing to bring the water up from the basin and is a cement retaining wall block that is covered in these great slate tiles.  The amount of water flowing from this style will create a significant water flowing sound.  You should note that this will sound a bit differently than the rock or boulder and cascading river effect as seen in some of the pictures below.

Garden and Pond Waterfalls

Backyard Waterfall Pictures

This is a combination of a rock waterfall into a hot tub.	This simple design allows for the waterfall to have nice, fluid drop to it. A very natural looking design.
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This is another example of a natural looking, stacked boulder waterfall.	This is a picture of a smaller waterfall feature with a longer river rock stream bed.
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Just a picture showing the flagstone style waterfall feature with a cement block basin surround.	One more example of a longer 'river' coming from the waterfall feature flowing into a pond that you cannot see.
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There are no particular stones or boulders that are better for the job. What makes the design look great is helping it to blend into your landscape design. Landscape waterfalls that look natural and blend into the rest of your outdoor features will unite your backyard space. You can incorporate elements of your patio as well, much like how the higher end resorts bring some of the nature elements into their rooms and spa treatment areas. This always adds a bit of elegance to the experience. You can do the same thing at home with your backyard waterfall design.

The reason that we bring up this topic on our site is because of its use for a patio roof. It makes for a really nice option in terms of aesthetics and it can also be quite simple to install for these applications. If you choose to go with a more expensive metal tile or material like copper, then you’ll probably want to invest in having a professional roofer do the installation. The industrious DIYer could handle a corrugated metal panel install just laid over some rafters or on top of some sheeting.

This is an example from Steelmaster of a large metal roof that is over a nice patio space.

These types of installations are often more for show than anything that we would consider for protection from the elements in a waterproof sort of way.

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Patio Roof Plans

So, what are your plans for your patio’s roof? You should know that the lattice roof found on many pergola designs is quite a popular choice. It is made using a wooden post and beam structure supporting rafters. These are what can then support a lattice structure up top or can be the finished ‘roof’ themselves.

Another option with the pergola is to place this sheet or metal roofing materials directly over these rafters as was just mentioned. Not only does this provide you with more solid shade, but it will also give you a nice sound effect when rain is hitting it.

Next step is to add a metal roof and get an even more efficient and 'clean' rain water collection system for use in the garden.

An additional point that makes a metal patio roof an attractive option is how it can be used with a rain water collection system or cistern. Since metal is naturally mildew and algae growth resistant and not produced with petroleum by-products, it allows for clean water runoff. This rainwater can be collected in your cisterns and used to water your plants in your garden.  This works especially well if your home has continuous or seamless gutters installed.

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You know – if you are a frequent visitor of our site – that we are big fans of building with green and environmentally-friendly materials and products wherever possible.   You’ll also appreciate that we find products that are as attractive aesthetically as they are environmentally where such products exist.  This is why we like the idea of a roof plans that call for using metal.

Environmental Benefits of a Metal Roof

This is a nice example of how copper will develop a nice patina over time.

It is lightweight, which makes it amenable to being installed over existing roof materials. This minimizes both labor in tearing off an old roof and also reduces waste that will accumulate in a landfill – especially since many older roofs contain those petroleum by-products.

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In addition to this, metal is recyclable. In fact, many metal roofs contain as much as 25% recycled (sometimes 95%!) materials. It is also able to allow water to run off and snow to be shed, removing the load on the roof.

We’ve mentioned the algae and mildew resistance. There is also a property known as ‘hydrostatic’ meaning that it protects a roof system from growing fungus created by moisture. This is more of a concern on your home than an open patio space, but it deserves mention, nonetheless.

Finally, metal is an energy efficient choice. It reflects up to 70% of the sun’s energy, minimizing heat retention. On the roof of your home, this could translate into 34% less heat gain when compared to a typical asphalt shingle roof. Speaking of the sun and patio roofs, we’ve also discussed the solar patio cover in another article. You may be interested in that option as well, potentially a combination of both.

For these reasons and more, a patio metal roof makes for a great choice for your unique patio. You’ll have a hard time finding patio covers that provide you with durability through hot and cold temperatures, wet and dry weather cycles and climate zones, high UV ray areas, windy conditions, hail, ice or snow as a metal roof does.

Our site is dedicated to providing homeowners and DIYers with the know-how and material knowledge to get more from their outdoor living spaces. The ability to enjoy your patio as an extra outdoor room of your home is something of a more recent trend that shows no sign of slowing. Many areas of the country can enjoy these spaces for three seasons and, in some cases, all four seasons.

Because of our audience, it is important for us to present a well-rounded view of what options are available. The staff at Patio Covers Place hail from the desert southwest, so their knowledge is much stronger in that area as it pertains to outdoor living. In other words, shade is somewhat of our ‘comfort zone’.

We all require shade to provide relief from those hot summer days. The intensity of the sun is not only harsh on our bodies, but can be damaging to outdoor patio furniture, cushions and other accessories. Ultra-violet rays are really the culprit.  The numbers vary, but the UV protection ranges from 70-95%.  There are a variety of shade styles that can be found to give you what you are looking for in terms of function and aesthetics.

Patio Shade Structures

The following are some of the more popular ways to shade your patio, deck or garden spaces. Using one or more of these will provide you with an assortment of flexible options.

Patio Covers
This is a broad or general term that encompasses a host of built structures. By built, we mean to say that these are most often constructed to be used in some specific location of your backyard. They are very often constructed of woods that resist moisture and long-term exposure to the elements.

Woods like red cedar, redwood or treated pine and Douglas fir are often more economical choices. Each of these can also be sealed or stained and sealed to provide you with even greater durability and protection from the damages of the sun and weather.

Pergolas

The pergola is a very common and classic type of patio structure that provides a variety of types of shade. The lattice roof of the pergola provides a great way to give you partial shade and allows for vines or climbing plants to grow up to provide you a sort of ‘living roof’. This will give you even more shade and possibly flowers, for both scent and visual appeal.

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Another appeal of building a pergola is that they can accommodate a variety of other outdoor living accessories. Things like outdoor lighting or a fan can be mounted to the roof and provide you with a more comfortable experience. Also, items like patio misters can be used to provide even further cooling of your space.

Gazebos
Similar in concept to the pergola, a gazebo is a stand-alone unit that has a unique shape and character to it. They often have a more fully covered roof with a dome shape to them. Railings are often found around them, occasionally with built-in seating or benches.

The gazebo is a bit less flexible in terms of how it can be used. Where the pergola can be attached to your home, existing ranch-style patio roof or be a free standing unit, the gazebo sits alone. This doesn’t lend itself to being used as a greater or expanded area of your home as extra square footage or living space, but it will certainly provide for shade, more noticeably more direct, overhead sun.

Fabric Shade Structures

This fabric shade structure was made using a simple frame and then draping the fabric over those pieces. It's simple, attractive and effective!

As we move on to these types of fabric shading styles, you’ll notice that there are some ways of getting the best of both the pergola and the fabric items listed here.   The ShadeTree® family of retractable canopy systems are some of the more flexible to use.  They can even be adapted to fit an existing structure.  These styles are quickly becoming the more popular way to shade patio and deck spaces. Unless your deck designs have a custom built cantilever type of wooden overhang, you’ll still need to consider ways of shading your space.

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Awnings and Canopies
Different styles of awnings exist to provide you with a wealth of shading options. Whether you’re looking to shade a common 10’ x 10’ space, or you need something much larger, there are a variety of awnings that can suit your needs. Awnings represent a similar product as the canopy. Canopies are more often fixed structures; like the pop-up, Easy-up or temporary canopy structures.

You can find more information regarding those specific awnings and canopies by reading our past articles on these topics.

Quick Reference:
Retractable Patio Awning
Vinyl Awnings
Porch Awnings
Awnings for Home
Garden Awnings
Roll Up Awnings
Deck Canopies
Patio Shades
Patio Canopies
Garden Canopy

Shade Sails

These multi-layered shade sails made great shade for a variety of backyard or patio applications.

Another type of fabric shade that deserves a bit of its own mention is the shade sail. These are more contemporary looking, even though they’ve been used around the world for decades. They have a very modern appeal to them and are very simple to use. This makes them a great candidate for use in your backyard.

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They come in a variety of colors and materials are similar to the awnings and canopies listed above. A high density polyethylene is the most commonly used. Knit designs allow for the air to pass, keeping the sun out and high temperatures from building up below the sail. These sails share many of the same design characteristics as the next product.

Shade Cloths
We’ve written about this product as well. It is a more general term that describes several types of fabrics. With the trend toward more green or eco-friendly products, there are now shade cloths that are made of durable materials that are not harmful to the environment. Many of the ethylene-based products have bi-products that are damaging to the environment.

Keep in mind that these cloths can also be used to shade a garden or other play area. Playground shade structures are another great example of what can be done with these. Whether you have a smaller jungle gym set or one of those larger DIY playground kits you can buy at your local warehouse stores or build yourself.

As you can see, there are a wide variety of styles available. As part of your backyard landscaping, shade is a critical piece of the design. All of these sun shade structures will give you what you’re after, you just first have to understand how you use your space. Hopefully, these ideas give you a clearer place upon which to further clarify your shading needs and plans.